@Shelovescake

We are now more than half way through the intermediate term and also the diploma as a whole. The pace and breadth of learning sees each week race by before we’re prepping for the following week’s challenges. I want it all to slow down so the end feels further away! Without doubt, this will go down as one of the best year’s of my life.

Our first kitchen session of the week would have been fairly relaxed had it not been for the apprehension for a tap on the shoulder and the request for a short order. What that would involve was not revealed until we walked into the kitchen: Hollandaise sauce (sabayon method / by hand) with a poached egg. I’d anticipated Hollandaise but it was the humble egg I really feared: achieving that classic teardrop shape, perfect runny yolk and set white. We were allowed to begin our other tasks first: browning chicken wings and veg as the starting point for a Madeira jus which would putter away for most of the session; and pulling together the ingredients for the sweet beer pickles which we’d be serving with sausage rolls next week. When the shoulder tap came, we had 15 just minutes to serve. I was a little late but the Hollandaise had a light, airy consistency and good balance of acidity; and when my teacher cut into the egg, beautiful deep yellow yolk oozed over the plate. Job done! In the afternoon, we had an enjoyable stroll through Champagne and sparkling wine techniques with Majorie ahead of the trip to Chapel Down the following day.

The trip did not start well. We were an hour delayed and somewhat on tenterhooks following a minor bit of road rage. But soon enough we were out of the city and into the rolling countryside of Kent. We were pushed for time but still managed a tour of the vineyard and a tasting session of six wines. By the time we had lunch it was 2.45pm and we were all somewhat giddy. A few of us opted out of the coach return trip, preferring the idea of the high speed train from Ashford International, accompanied by a cuppa and a four-finger Kit Kat 🙂

Wednesday and Thursday posed a new challenge. We would each take the role of lead chef and commis chef in turn to cook in pairs five identical plates of food. Duck breast and Madeira jus were required, the rest was chef’s choice. I took on the commis role first supporting lead chef, Mary Morgan. Her plate included a parsnip puree (sweet, smooth and delicious), pickled blackberries (cutting through the fatty duck perfectly), and green beans with pine nut, lemon and parmesan gremolata. It was great fun working as a team and helpful to have experienced it before taking on the lead role myself. I was nervous watching the commis come into the kitchen awaiting who would be assigned to me. Happily Rohan approached my bench with a big grin. Calm and capable, I knew the session would go well with him as my commis. I quickly talked him through my vision for the dish and we got to work. Me scoring the duck fat ready to be tempered and rendered; and Rohan picking up the accompaniments. Everything came together well and we served exactly on time: duck, Maderia jus, green beans tossed in butter and nutmeg, caramelised shallot, pan-fried Braeburn apple, and a sage and hazelnut crumb. A pretty plate of food that tasted as good as it looked!

The final test of the week came on Friday. Our second formal assessment of the term: make pasta by machine and shape into garganelli; prepare a well-balanced sausage and fennel ragu and serve it all hot within the service window. Making the pasta was fine but individually rolling the garganelli was very time-consuming. I worried my pasta was over-cooked (it only needed 2 mins max) and my ragu not softened sufficiently by the cream. But when I ate a portion for lunch I had to admit it was tasty so hopefully the assessor thought so too!

Our teaching sessions this week were varied and delicious. First was Andy Oliver from Som Saa, who cooked up an array of lip-smacking Thai food. His knowledge of Thai cuisine, having spent a considerable amount of time in the country, was extensive and fascinating. Megan Coker, ex-Leith’s student and latterly teacher, is now working as a head chef at Dinner Ladies, an events caterer. A hugely talented chef who imparted a wealth of useful information about catering and prepared us a three course meal plus three canapés in under two hours. My favourites were the Lavosh cracker, miso mayo, kimchi and fried basil canapé and the seared sumac and peppercorn tuna starter. And obviously I couldn’t resist a second mouthful of the caramelised brown sugar custard tart!

Rough puff was the teaching demo, which attempted to show us it’s not as difficult as we might have thought. My mum made rough puff effortlessly every weekend as the base for her famous Russian fish pie; and sausage rolls (frequently) on request for family gatherings and the grandchildren’s birthdays. I never managed to master it under her tutelage. Hopefully I can make her proud as she looks down from above. To motivate us, we were treated to freshly baked sausage rolls with a chilli ketchup (hello home-made Christmas gift) and a tarte tatin with Calvados cream. A few hours to digest those treats, and then an evening session with the owners of Honey & co. What a great husband and wife double-act. Very witty and of course, incredibly talented. We feasted on freshly cooked falafel and tahini sauce, muhmara with freshly baked flat bread, fatoush, and their signature knafe pudding.

A decadent and indulgent week for sure. Swimming and running on the agenda for the weekend…along with wine revision for our upcoming level 2 exam. Next week, another formal assessment, our third all day cook and thankfully a day of for some home study.